canon Pixma IP1000 Waste Tank Repair
Much has been said on this forum about restting waste tank full messages. The following, already cribbed from a post here will do just that (thank you!)|
1. unplug power cord.
2. press and hold power button.
3. plug power cord.
4. press resume button 8 times.
5. release power button.
6. press power button to turn on.
HOWEVER - this is only ever a temporary fix as the waste tank is REALLY full and so the problem will continue to recur.
A little help can be got from allowing the printer to dry out thoroughly, although this will probably also destroy your cartridges.
There are two effective solutions to the problem. Both are 'kill-or-cure' and I accept no liability for injury or loss if you follow either.
This first method was used to successfully repair a very gunked-up pixma IP1000 and details how to remove, clean and replace the waste ink pads. I would rate this repair as moderately difficult. You will need a small posidrive or phillips screwdriver (no1 will do) which should be magnetic or augmented with blu-tak for the harder to fix screws. A pair of needle-nose pliers will come in handy if springs work loose. Don't begin without. Allow 2 hours for the fix. You will have a horrible time putting it back together if you don't fix it as soon as you can!
1: Disconnect from power(!)
2: Open the printer and remove all the flaps. Remove the top cover - two screws at the front and two catches at the back. Remove the ends (two catches on each on underside)
3: LEAVE THE INK WELLS ALONE (these are on the right of the printer under the cartridge rest position. They look dirty but do not usually need cleaning. They are very difficult to put back together if they fall apart. (not impossible though. it is worth cleaning the two ink-stained pads. These can be easily prised off and replaced. Leave the rubber alone!
4: Remove the printer carriage. The main PCB, printer carriage and motor can all be lifted away if all the screws supporting them are removed. You will need to disconnect a single plug from the main PCB to the paper feed. Leave all the other plugs on as it does not need to be moved far. Be careful as you will have difficulty re-assembling the thing if the paper-flattener spring-clips come out.
5. Remove the paper shaker. This is the flap at the back. It is hard to remove and must be gently stretched to come out of its lugs without snapping. There is a large spring. Watch where it came from (and where it goes!)
6. Remove the paper feed wheel. This is on an axle which goes into a white cog to its right. You must use two blades to prise the fixing catches gently apart allowing the wheel to be withdrawn. (Nb You may be able to avoid this step but I did it anyway)
7. Remove the screws holding the ink pump (white blob to the right) and paper feed counterspring (under the feed wheel) retaining screws. There is an alarming crunch as gears disengage when you lift this up. fret not, all should be well. Don't move it so far that you disturb the ink catchers. All will come away as a single unit.
8. Remove, clean and dry the pads which absorb the ink. Wear gloves if you wish to stay married. Replace same when dry.
9. Replace ink pump. This goes back with firm pressure to re-engage the cogs with the paper feed mechanism. Expect a satisfying crunch! Screw down the pump and paper counterspring mechanism.
10. Replace the paper feed wheel. This just clicks on.
11. Likewise the paper flipper. You may need to rotate the black cog on the right of the mechanism (easiest accessed from behind) until it makes a loud clunk. This will re-engage the mechanism. Printer should do this anyway on power-up though. Again, I did it for fun.
12. Refix print head mechanism. First ensure all the small spring clips are in place at the bottom then fix down. It is quite fiddly ans easiest done if started from the left. Make sure the paper feed wheel locates in its lug and that you reattach the connector removed earlier.
13. refix the casing and perform reset procedure above.
14. Hopefully all will work!
If this all seems too much, it is likely that the following untired, untested and probably dangerous procedure will work:
remove the casing and pour a jug of warm water under the ink wells on the right (you may have to pull the print heads leftwards) Leave wet for a few minutes. This will dissolve most of the ink and remove any blockages.
Pour out the inky mess. repeat as many times as you can stand it or until water runs less inky. Leave printer in a dry breeze for a couple of days before powering up.
This does not expose any electrical parts to water but may have a long term effect on metal springs etc. It really is kill-or-cure. It works because the rpoblem is a build-up of thick black ink residue near the pump outlet.
The method can be enhanced by using a syringe to direct water down the black ink line (grey tube is easily disconnected and reconnected to allow this.
I hope that this will help all the many who ask for directions. Really, you are better off throwing the damn thing in the bin and buying a laser printer. By the time you use the initial set of toner, it will already have paid for itself when compared with buying ink...